Thien Mu Pagoda


One of the most important cultural centers in Vietnam, Thien Mu Pagoda represents the finest in Buddhist studies. Long held as the intellectual and political hub of Buddhist activity during the American engagement, the history of Thien Mu stretches back centuries.

The Pagoda itself was constructed by Emperor Thieu Tri in 1844. While the structure was completed during the nineteenth century, Thien Mu began as a religious center during the 1600's. Comprised of seven levels, the pagoda is over 20 meters tall. Legend has it that each of the seven levels had a solid gold Buddha's that were later stolen under mysterious circumstances. Behind the pagoda itself are the living quarters for the monks and novices.

Often referred to as the command-central for the Buddhist protests during the war, the pagoda was the home of the dissident monk Quang Duc who later became an international symbol of resistance by immolating himself in Saigon. To this day it is possible to see the car that Quang Duc rode to Saigon. The Blue Austin is an important symbol of the politics of the Buddhists at the time.

Currently, political involvement is limited for monks not only at Thien Mu, but throughout the country. Lacking any public support, the pagoda's attempt to eke out a living from alms from the faithful, farming and odd tasks. At this time the leaders of the Thien Mu monastery are incarcerated for their criticism of the current regime in power. This seems to be an ironic counterpoint to burning images of Quang Duc from the War.

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